Recipes from "A Week on the Water": Tarte Tatin

Founder of Boutique Hotel Barges and "A Week on the Water" author, Hazel Young, is a graduate of the French National Cooking School in Beaune. She has run numerous cooking seminars and culinary cruises aboard her former barge Fandango, and planned the boutique barge's extraordinary menus for over two decades.

With Fall in the air, and the farmers market full of delicious apples, what better time to make this upside-down caramelized apple tart?

Tarte Tatin

Quick puff pastry:

• 2 cups white flour
• pinch of salt
• 1 cup very cold butter grated with a large cheese grater

Work in butter slivers, add water little by little and form a ball. Roll out and fold over by thirds a few times, as for puff pastry. Roll out and put in pie tin to refrigerate while preparing the apples.

Filling:

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup sugar
• 8 firm apples, peeled, cored and cut in half
• 3 tablespoons Calvados apple brandy
• 3 tablespoons apple juice

Place sugar, brandy and apple juice in large heavy skillet over low heat, stir to dissolve sugar, add butter and allow to melt and bubble. Lower heat.
Add apples, dome side down, the liquid has to reduce to a caramel eventually. This is a lovingly tended 45 minutes procedure, the apples have to remain firm but cooked through each one coated in caramel.
Place your pastry on top.
Bake at (400ºF/200ºC/Gas 6) until pastry is golden, and caramel is sizzling underneath.

Highlights of Burgundy: Beaune

The city of Beaune, considered the "Capital of Burgundy Wines," sits at the heart of the Côte d'Or department in Eastern France, on the Route des Grands Crus.  It is surrounded by villages and small towns where vintners cultivate grapes that produce the world-renowned wines of Burgundy.
 
Although there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune, many of the vats and cellars where wines are fermented and aged are located within the city.  It is a hub for the wine industry, with suppliers of tractors and other wine-making equipment located here, as well as a number of wine-related institutes and associations.  It is also headquarters for many négociants, the wine merchants who purchase the products of smaller growers and winemakers, to be bottled and sold under a larger domaine's label.

Beaune is an ancient city, whose settlement pre-dates Roman times.  Its history continues through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and survives today, with about half of the battlements, ramparts, and moat of the Medieval walled city remaining intact.
 
A major attraction for visitors to Beaune is L'Hôtel-Dieu, a hospital and refuge for the poor, which received its first patient on January 1, 1452, and has welcomed the elderly, disabled, and sick for treatment from the Middle Ages through the present.  Its beautiful patterned tile roof, a style unique to the Burgundy region, offers a wonderful opportunity for photography, as does the interior, with breathtaking stained glass and ornate woodwork.

The older section of the city features a cluster of shops and cafés around the central square. Shop here for wine (of course!), as well as other gourmet French treats, and fashionable clothing. An afternoon stroll to window-shop, stopping at an outdoor cafe for a pick-me-up, provides great entertainment in itself.

Beaune's Saturday market is a major event. Vendors spill out from the Les Halles covered market into the pedestrian area outside L'Hôtel-Dieu. Inside, the market stalls are heaped with the freshest seasonal produce, cheeses, fish, and baked goods — a true feast for the senses.

Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Beaune at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Highlights of the Midi: Carcassonne

Historic Fortified City of Carcassonne

A cruise on Canal du Midi wouldn't be complete without a visit to Carcassonne. You will step back in time as you explore the restored medieval fortified town.

Historic Cité de Carcassonne is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The city rests on a hill overlooking the Aude Valley, and has served as a fortified settlement since prehistoric times.  Carcassonne occupies a strategic location, along the ancient routes linking the Atlantic and Mediterranean. It was been held by or ruled over by many different groups throughout history.   The earliest occupation of the site dates to the 6th century BC. Romans fortified the hilltop around 100 BC and occupied the area until the fall of the Roman Empire in western Europe. The fortification was taken over in the fifth century by the Visigoths, who founded the city. Carcassonne gained notoriety in the 13th century as a stronghold of Occitan Cathars, before they were defeated by Simon de Montfort.

In the mid-1800s Carcassonne underwent extensive restoration, a controversial project undertaken by architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. Viollet-le-Duc began the restoration work by ordering structures destroyed, that over the centuries, had encroached on the ruins of the ancient fortifications.  Many of these structures were themselves quite old, and often were constructed using rubble from the battlements.  The restoration is criticized by some for being less than completely authentic, but there is no doubt that Viollet-Le-Duc's work was genius.

Today Carcassonne provides a wonderful experience for visitors who walk the narrow, car-free streets and tour the restored battlements at the heart of the old city.  Carcassonne is home to several one- and two-Michelin-starred restaurants, an abundance of cafés, as well as enough boutiques and shops to fill the afternoon with exciting retail opportunities.  For a unique before- or after-cruise stay, try one of the hotels located within the walls of the old city.

Barges cruising Canal du Midi include Athos du Midi, Colibri, Emma, Enchanté, Roi Soleil, and Tango. Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Carcassonne at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Featured Barge: Athos du Midi

Barge Athos du Midi offers private charter cruises for 8 to 10 guests, as well as individual cabin bookings, cruising the Canal du Midi.

The Athos is designed for outdoor enjoyment of the Canal du Midi with a spacious deck and top quality bicycles. Having five cabins makes the Athos the perfect barge for family or friends reunions or the possibility of workshops for painting or writing for instance . Every land visit from Carcassonne to the Mediterranean port of Marseillian is exceptionally well organized and informative.

Danielle and Julian Farrant run a tight ship. Captain Julian entertains guests as a raconteur telling 20 years of anecdotes gleaned while cruising the canal, complete with all the accents. Guests love it. Danielle oversees every aspect of the day to day operations from staff to kitchen to staterooms to maintain their high standard of service.

Athos' chef knows that sublime food and wine is a principle reason to come to France. Each meal aboard the Athos is special, inspired both by the tradition of rich, French cuisine and fresh Mediterranean ingredients. Chef takes passengers on a journey through the very best of the Southern French culinary tradition.

What Makes Athos Special

• Best choice for family gatherings or groups of friends wanting to travel together.
• Excellent for individual cabin bookings as more guests offer more social choices where a party atmosphere quickly evolves.
• Every evening the two hostesses set a very elegant, candlelit table enhancing the delicious gourmet French cuisine and wines.

Learn more about cruising on Barge Athos du Midi, or book your trip at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Recipes from "A Week on the Water": Sticky Toffee Pudding

Founder of Boutique Hotel Barges and "A Week on the Water" author, Hazel Young, is a graduate of the French National Cooking School in Beaune. She has run numerous cooking seminars and culinary cruises aboard her former barge Fandango, and planned the boutique barge's extraordinary menus for over two decades.

STEP ONE Cake Batter

• 175 g (6 oz) dates, chopped in mixer
• 2 cups of water
• pinch of salt
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 175g (1/2 cup) white flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 50 g (2 oz) butter
• 150 g (6 oz) sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Put water into a saucepan with salt, add dates and bring to a boil, simmer 2 minutes.
Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
Add baking soda.
Mix butter, sugar, eggs, flour and vanilla into a smooth paste.
Blend into cooled date mixture.
Bake in oven (375ºF190ºC/Gas 5) oven until brown and risen, approximately 35 minutes

STEP TWO Butterscotch Sauce

• 125 g (5 oz) butter
• 2 cups sugar
• 250 ml (1 1/2 cup) cream
• 2 tablespoons icing sugar
• 6 mint leaves for decoration

Put butter and sugar in saucepan, stir constantly so it doesn’t burn, caramelize until a nice light brown color
Add cream carefully so it doesn’t splutter, bring back to boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn off heat, set aside.
To serve, ladle the sauce onto dessert plates, cut squares or circles out of the cake and place onto the warm sauce. Sprinkle with a little icing sugar and place a mint leaf on each.
Serve warm.

Travel Tips: Global Entry Program for US Travellers

At the end of a long flight back to the US from a foreign country, the last thing anyone feels like doing is standing in a slowly snaking line to go through Customs. You can avoid this by using the lighting-fast, automated kiosk to check in, and be on your way to baggage claim with little or no waiting in line.

A bit of pre-travel planning is required to be eligible for kiosk check-in. You must register for the Global Entry program, undergo a background check, and pay the $100 fee.  Once registered, your Global Entry membership is valid for five years.

More information on the program and full instructions on how to apply can be found at http://www.cbp.gov/global-entry/about

Here is a brief overview of program information:

Benefits for Global Entry Members

• No processing lines
• No paperwork
• Access to expedited entry benefits in other countries
• Available at major U.S. airports
• Reduced wait times

Eligibility for Global Entry

Global Entry is open to U.S. citizens, lawful permanent residents, Dutch citizens, South Korean citizens, Panamanian citizens and Mexican nationals. Canadian citizens and residents may enjoy Global Entry benefits through membership in the NEXUS program.

Applicants must be in possession of either a machine-readable passport or U.S. permanent resident card.

How to Apply 

Apply Online: Fill out an online application and pay the $100 non-refundable application fee.

Schedule an Interview: Once your application is reviewed, you will receive a message in your GOES account instructing you to schedule an interview at one of the Global Entry Enrollment Centers.

Interview Determines Your Eligibility: A U.S. Customs Border Protection officer will ask you questions, take your photo, and collect biometric information (e.g., scan your fingerprints).

Provide Identification: Bring your valid passport(s) and one other form of identification, such as a driver's license or ID card to the interview. If you are a lawful permanent resident, you must present your permanent resident card.

Visit Boutique Hotel Barges to schedule your next French canal cruise.

Featured Barge: Tango

A barge cruise on Tango means relaxed luxury plus a chance for personal contact with a stimulating local culture. Each day will be a flowing experience of cruising for a few hours and sightseeing excursions in our air-conditioned mini-van, visiting historic sites, shopping at open air markets, and enjoying wine tasting. At the beginning of your voyage, our tour guide will discuss your interests and tailor activities to feature those local highlights you will find most enjoyable.

Tango's décor is a delight in all its details. Large brass portholes and opening skylights throughout the vessel provide fresh circulating air and light. French art deco fixtures, Provençal ivory linens, and rich teak wall panelling recreate the atmosphere of 1930's French passenger liners. Up on deck, two terraces provide space for al fresco dining, and a sundeck with hot tub.

What Makes Tango Special

• Two separate outdoor terraces -- one for dining, and the other a sundeck with heated spa
• Gourmet meals focus on rich culinary tradition of the Languedoc region
• Wines are hand-picked from best vineyards in the area by Tango's owner, also a wine maker

Learn more about Tango on Boutique Hotel Barges.