Highlights of Burgundy: Beaune

The city of Beaune, considered the "Capital of Burgundy Wines," sits at the heart of the Côte d'Or department in Eastern France, on the Route des Grands Crus.  It is surrounded by villages and small towns where vintners cultivate grapes that produce the world-renowned wines of Burgundy.
 
Although there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune, many of the vats and cellars where wines are fermented and aged are located within the city.  It is a hub for the wine industry, with suppliers of tractors and other wine-making equipment located here, as well as a number of wine-related institutes and associations.  It is also headquarters for many négociants, the wine merchants who purchase the products of smaller growers and winemakers, to be bottled and sold under a larger domaine's label.

Beaune is an ancient city, whose settlement pre-dates Roman times.  Its history continues through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and survives today, with about half of the battlements, ramparts, and moat of the Medieval walled city remaining intact.
 
A major attraction for visitors to Beaune is L'Hôtel-Dieu, a hospital and refuge for the poor, which received its first patient on January 1, 1452, and has welcomed the elderly, disabled, and sick for treatment from the Middle Ages through the present.  Its beautiful patterned tile roof, a style unique to the Burgundy region, offers a wonderful opportunity for photography, as does the interior, with breathtaking stained glass and ornate woodwork.

The older section of the city features a cluster of shops and cafés around the central square. Shop here for wine (of course!), as well as other gourmet French treats, and fashionable clothing. An afternoon stroll to window-shop, stopping at an outdoor cafe for a pick-me-up, provides great entertainment in itself.

Beaune's Saturday market is a major event. Vendors spill out from the Les Halles covered market into the pedestrian area outside L'Hôtel-Dieu. Inside, the market stalls are heaped with the freshest seasonal produce, cheeses, fish, and baked goods — a true feast for the senses.

Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Beaune at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Highlights of Burgundy: A Trip to the Dijon Market

Even on a grey day at the end of the barging season in late October, a trip to Dijon's fabulous Les Halles market is a guaranteed pleasure for anyone with a love for food. The covered market occupies an expansive 19th-century structure, designed and built by Eiffel Tower architect, Gustave Eiffel.

On market days, the shopping begins before you even enter the market. Vendors line the street, featuring everything from seasonal produce to tee shirts. On our fall trip there were tables heaped with late-season crops, the stars of which were les champions — the mushrooms.

Inside, Les Halles hums with activity, filled with stalls offering shoppers every sort of wonderful food imaginable. Fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, cheese, eggs, dairy products, sausages, snails, pate, bread and pastries, endless varieties of jams and jellies, wines and liqueur de cassis — all as much a delight for the eyes as for the taste buds.

A stop at the fromage counter finds the amicable vendors eager to offer samples and make recommendations for new and enticing types of French cheese to try. Our purchases on this visit included some Saint Marcellin, Fourme d'Ambert and and a particularly decadent and creamy Pont l'Evêque, later enjoyed back at the barge with a loaf of crusty bread and a bottle of sparkling Crement.

The biggest market days are Tuesday and Friday. Thursday the market is only inside Les Halles. It's always best to go early in the day. You will be done with shopping in time for lunch in one of the many small cafés and bistros within walking distance of the market.

Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Dijon at Boutique Hotel Barges.