Recipes from "A Week on the Water": Poulet Languedoc

Founder of Boutique Hotel Barges and "A Week on the Water" author, Hazel Young, is a graduate of the French National Cooking School in Beaune. She has run numerous cooking seminars and culinary cruises aboard her former barge Fandango, and planned the boutique barge's extraordinary menus for over two decades.

From the Camargue

Poulet Languedoc
Chicken in wine sauce Languedoc style

• 1 free range chicken
• 3 shallots chopped
• 1 onion chopped
• 300 g (2 cups) mixed fresh or frozen wild mushrooms
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 red and one green bell pepper, roasted, peeled and chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
• 2 bay leaves
• 10 green olives
• 3 ripe red tomatoes, or 1 small can
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 1 cup white wine
• 3 cups chicken stock

Remove chicken legs, wings and breasts and make the stock with the carcass.

Sauté chopped onion and shallots in olive oil until translucent, add chicken pieces, slowly browning them on the outside.

Add all other ingredients and slowly simmer for 45 minutes adjust seasoning.

Highlights of the Midi: Festivals in Languedoc-Roussillon

The towns and villages of France host many annual festivals, celebrating everything from patron saint days to cassoulet, and  pretty much anything in between.  All are cause to have a party and are wonderful occasions to get out and enjoy the regional food and culture of La Belle France.  The Languedoc region is no exception, with even the tiniest of villages hosting at least one fête each year.

Festival Flamenco à Nîmes
(January)

This festival, held at the Théâtre de Nîmes, attracts the great masters of Spanish flamenco dancing, as well as guitarists and singers.  Come to enjoy performances of this exciting and romantic Andalusian art form.  (Tickets are required)

Le Poulain de Pézenas
(Festival held for 3 Days preceding Lent)

Like several of the surrounding towns and villages, Pézenas has a "totem animal"; in this case a huge horse called Le Poulain (lo poulain or lo polin in Occitan), which means "the colt".  It makes appearances at festivals and parades throughout the year, especially for the Le Poulain de Pézenas celebration preceding Lent.  Le Poulain is said to commemorate a visit to the town in 1226 by Louis VIII, during which the king's favorite mare fell ill. She had to be left behind in Pézenas while Louis continued with the Albigensian Crusade. On his return he was astonished to find that not only was his mare now fully recovered, but she had also given birth to a fine colt, which was duly presented to him, adorned with ribbons. In return he decreed that the town should construct a wooden colt to be used to celebrate all its public festivities. The first mention of the custom is in 1615.



Medieval Festival in Sommieres
(First weekend in April)

The first weekend in April each year, this beautiful town comes alive with a street festival featuring costumed merchants, performers, music and street markets.

Grands jeux romains à Nîmes  (Great Roman Games of Nîmes)
(May)

Held annually in Nîmes, this festival features events that highlight the age of the Roman Empire.  Over 400 elaborately costumed re-enactors stage charriot races, gladiator fights, and mock battles.  There are activities throughout the town, including in the Arènes de Nîmes, the historic Roman amphitheater.

Festival National de Theatre Amateur in Narbonne
(Late June/Early July)

Nightly performances are held on the Cours de la Madeleine at the Archbishop's Palace.

Fête de la St-Pierre in Sète
(First weekend in July)

In early July, on the feast day of St. Peter, patron saint of fisherman, the residents of Sète come together to honor those who have been lost at sea, and ask for protection for those who make their livelihood on the water.  A parade carries a statue of St. Peter through the streets, then aboard a boat which is joined by a procession of fishing trawlers festooned with flags and flowers. After the procession there is a water jousting tournament. Mix this in with the delicious local seafood, and an ample supply of rosé to wash it down, and it is impossible not to have a fabulous time.

Bastille Day
(July 14th)

Bastille Day is celebrated nation-wide in France, with fireworks displays, parades, music, and other events.  Carcassonne is one of the more spectacular locations to watch the fireworks lighting up the night sky over the ramparts of the historic walled cité.  Narbonne also features an excellent Bastille Day pyrotechnics display, along with a four day celebration in the Cours Mirabeau.

Festival de Radio-France in Montpellier
(held annually in July)

This international music festival features all music genres from classical to jazz. Events and live performances are held at various venues across the city.

Fiesta de Sète
(Late July/Early August)

The Festival de Sète is a two-week long Mediterranean music festival covering folk and pop music from North Africa and Europe. The festival takes place in late July to early August. There is plenty of street theatre and parties going on, as well as nightly performances in the Theatre de la Mer.

Beaucaire Medieval Fair
(4th week of July)

Beaucaire is famous for its annual Medieval fair held annually since 1217.  The fair was originally established to commemorate a famous victory against Simon de Montfort's forces. At its height this fair would attract over 300,000 people.

Festival d'Avignon
(mid-July)

The Festival d'Avignon is a 'can't miss' for lovers of theatre, dance and contemporary art, considered a major event, and a must see on the French theatrical calendar.  The Festival d'Avignon draws the attention of professionals and amateurs from all over the world, and has over the years amassed a large number of faithful observers and commentators from France and abroad.

Grand Prix de la Saint-Louis à Sète
(End of August)

Every year at the end of August the Grand Prix de la Saint-Louis à Sète, the unofficial world championship of water jousting, is held in conjunction with the festival of Saint Louis. Competitors must be invited by the city to participate.  The sport of water jousting (les joutes languedociennes) is an important element of local culture. Tournaments are held from April to September on the Canal Royal in the center of town, and are the highlight of the summer festivals. The competition involves two wooden row boats, one blue and one red, manned by a team of rowers. The jousters, wielding wooden lances and shields, are positioned on a raised platform (la tintaine) at the stern of the boats. The boats are rowed toward each other, and as one would expect, the jousters attempt to dislodge each other from their platform, sending the loser for a swim in the canal.

Fête du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary
(Late August)

Castelnaudary has a massive week-long festival to celebrate cassoulet, the traditional dish of duck, sausage, white beans and duck fat said to have originated in Castelnaudary. Festivities include canal sports, live bands, dancing, street entertainers, and of course, cassoulet.   Main street is taken over by tents with long trestle tables where everyone enjoys this local specialty.


La Feria in Beziers
(Late August)

Some say this is the greatest Languedoc festival.  Beziers comes alive in spectacular fashion with fireworks, street entertainment, and a daily Spanish corrida. This is also an important wine festival.

Le Grau/Port Camargue

(Second Week of September)

This fête includes bull-running through the streets, Camarguaises horsemanship, and water-jousting, together with lots of street parties and all-around merry-making.


Les Primeurs d'Oc in Beziers
(October)

The premier wine festival of the Languedoc, Les Primeurs d'Oc in Beziers features wine contests and awards, together with music, dance, and theater.

Introducing Barge Saraphina

We're excited to welcome Saraphina
to Boutique Hotel Barges,
with this special offer for 2016!

SPECIAL OFFER FROM SARAPHINA! 10% DISCOUNT on 4-passenger, 6-day charter cruises on Saraphina, booked before December 31, 2015! Contact Boutique Hotel Barges for details.

Saraphina is a Dutch barge, built in 1924, cruising the Canal du Midi between Portiragnes plage and Carcassonne. Owners Emily and Finnegan bring extensive experience in hospitality and piloting from their years on some of Europe's most exclusive luxury barges, to make your week cruising on Saraphina the perfect holiday. Both 3- and 6-night cruises.

Saraphina has 2 spacious cabins, each about 20 square meters in size, both with en-suite bathrooms. There is a comfortable deck to lounge on as you cruise, or take the traditional dutch bicycles and cycle along the towpath. Meals can be enjoyed outside, in Saraphina's covered wheelhouse, or in the spacious dining area. Watch as your meals are prepared by your hosts in the open kitchen.

Learn more about Saraphina at BoutiqueHotelBarges.com»
Or contact us to book your cruise: info@boutiquehotelbarges.com,
+703-339-5254 (US) / +33 688 811 605 (France)

Boutique Hotel Barges, LLC
Luxury Barge Cruises on the Canals of France
+703-339-5254 (US)
+33 688 811 605 (France)
info@boutiquehotelbarges.com
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Highlights of the Midi: Olives

Among the most beautiful sights in the countryside surrounding the Canal du Midi are the groves of olive trees with their silvery-green leaves and twisted trunks. The Languedoc region's dry, hot, summers and mild winters provide the ideal climate for olives, and they have been cultivated here for centuries.

Many varieties of olives are grown in the Languedoc, for both general consumption and pressing into the wonderful golden oil that is so highly valued in the kitchen. There are always one or more vendors at the local markets with mounds of locally-grown olives of every sort: green, black, oil cured, Picholines, Lucques, Négrettes, Noirettes, and more.

A Visit to the Olive Mill

If you love olives, you won't want to miss a visit to the Coopérative Oléicole L'Oulibo, near the village of Bize-Minervois. L'Oulibo is a growers' cooperative where olives from across the region are brought to be pressed into oil.

L'Oulibo offers guided tours that include a 20 minute film, The "Odyssey Olivier", a chance to see the oil press operation, and stroll through their olive grove, where display panels feature a history of the olive tree. The highlight of your visit will be L'Oulibo's shop, where you can sample all of the many varieties of olives and oil, and pick up a few bottles to take home. The shop also offers a wide range of regionally produced products — soaps, corkscrews and pepper mills made from olive wood, colorful hand-knit scarfs and socks — all perfect for gifts, or to keep yourself as a souvenir of your fabulous cruise week.

Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Coopérative Oléicole L'Oulibo at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Highlights of Burgundy: Beaune

The city of Beaune, considered the "Capital of Burgundy Wines," sits at the heart of the Côte d'Or department in Eastern France, on the Route des Grands Crus.  It is surrounded by villages and small towns where vintners cultivate grapes that produce the world-renowned wines of Burgundy.
 
Although there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Beaune, many of the vats and cellars where wines are fermented and aged are located within the city.  It is a hub for the wine industry, with suppliers of tractors and other wine-making equipment located here, as well as a number of wine-related institutes and associations.  It is also headquarters for many négociants, the wine merchants who purchase the products of smaller growers and winemakers, to be bottled and sold under a larger domaine's label.

Beaune is an ancient city, whose settlement pre-dates Roman times.  Its history continues through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, and survives today, with about half of the battlements, ramparts, and moat of the Medieval walled city remaining intact.
 
A major attraction for visitors to Beaune is L'Hôtel-Dieu, a hospital and refuge for the poor, which received its first patient on January 1, 1452, and has welcomed the elderly, disabled, and sick for treatment from the Middle Ages through the present.  Its beautiful patterned tile roof, a style unique to the Burgundy region, offers a wonderful opportunity for photography, as does the interior, with breathtaking stained glass and ornate woodwork.

The older section of the city features a cluster of shops and cafés around the central square. Shop here for wine (of course!), as well as other gourmet French treats, and fashionable clothing. An afternoon stroll to window-shop, stopping at an outdoor cafe for a pick-me-up, provides great entertainment in itself.

Beaune's Saturday market is a major event. Vendors spill out from the Les Halles covered market into the pedestrian area outside L'Hôtel-Dieu. Inside, the market stalls are heaped with the freshest seasonal produce, cheeses, fish, and baked goods — a true feast for the senses.

Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Beaune at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Featured Barge: Mirage

Private charter and individual cabin bookings for 2 to 6



Boutique Hotel Barges is pleased to welcome the newest member of our family of owner-operated barges, Mirage.

The Mirage has the most spacious accommodation of any of the Midi barges, The grand salon / dining area as well as a huge deck give a luxurious amount of space. Mimi is the quintessential elegant French hostess and Pascal the perfect Captain; not only a barge pilot but also an aviation pilot. They have hand picked an excellent chef and tour guide to complete the crew of four to entertain and pamper you within a very authentic French atmosphere.

What Makes Mirage Special

• Private charter cruises for as few as 2 passengers
• Offers both 3- and 6-night cruise itineraries
• 30 opening portholes fill Mirage with light and air
• Open galley allows you to pick up tips as the chef prepares your meals
• Optional excursion by air in classic Comet biplane

Learn more about Mirage on Boutique Hotel Barges.

Featured Barge: Colibri

Private Charter Only for up to 4 guests


Colibri is a beautifully maintained vessel with a light and spacious interior and a beautiful garden on deck. You will feel immediately at home, relaxing into the comfort of this professionally run cruise.

Fiona and Earl Pilatti spent years working in the luxury yachting world perfecting a high level of service. Their cruises are impeccable on every level and offer a relaxed atmosphere. While Fiona busies herself taking care of all your needs, Earl with his Australian humor keeps everyone in stitches. As guests say, “It's a good show.”

What Makes Colibri Special

• Only two couples constitute a full charter on this snazzy barge
• 83% of their guests return for a repeat cruise. (If your dates are available do not hesitate to book immediately as they fill rapidly)
• In 2015 the Colibri is our only boutique barge choice cruising the Bordeaux wine region

Learn more about Barge Colibri on Boutique Hotel Barges.

Highlights of the Midi: Le Somail

Le Somail sits astride the Canal du Midi, at the junction of three communes, Ginestas, Saint Nazaire, and Salleles d'Aude.  This charming French village owes it's existence to the canal, as it was founded in the 17th century to serve those who operated and worked on the peniches that were a major form of commercial transport at the time.  Today Le Somail serves the tourist industry, with some of those same classic peniches, converted into luxury boutique hotel barges, bringing their passengers for a lovely afternoon visit or overnight mooring.

Many of the structures in Le Somail are listed as Monuments Historiques in the Base Mérimée, a database of architectural heritage maintained by the French Ministry of Culture.  Included are the 17th Century stone bridge over the canal, the chapel that sits next to it, and la glacière (the ice house).

La Chapelle de Le Somail

La glacière

For anyone with a love of books, or vintage things in general, Le Trouve Tout du Livre is a 'can't miss' stop.  This antique bookstore is a treasure trove of vintage books, magazines, posters, and postcards.  It's easy to become lost in their vast collection, as hours can slip away unnoticed. But, if your stay in Le Somail is brief, you'll want to save some time for the other gems found here.

From the bookstore, cross the stone bridge and turn right along the canal, where you will often find renowned artist Denis Carrière working at his easel.  His paintings beautifully reflect the local color of life along the Canal du Midi.  Denis' work is available for purchase in his gallery (or online) — what a perfect gift or souvenir of your week on the canal.

Denis Carrière

Paintings by Denis Carrière

Should all of your exploration around the village have worked up an appetite, Le Somail offers several choices for catching a bite to eat.

Le Somail Rive Droite

Le Comptoir Nature
Chemin de Halage, 1, 11120 Le Somail, France / 04 68 46 01 61
This restaurant is a favorite of foodies who come here to enjoy the best locally sourced organic meats and produce the area has to offer.  All meals are freshly prepared by Le Comptoir Nature's four local French women chefs, using ingredients procured daily: daurade picked up at the Narbonne fish market, magret de canard, lamb, and pork from farmers in the nearby Pyrenees, and wonderful fresh seasonal vegetables.  There is even a vegetarian plate on the menu, a rarity in these parts.  The artisanal ice cream is made from ewe’s milk - delicious!  Le Comptoir Nature offers a selection of fine organic wines.  Enjoy a bottle to accompany your meal, or sip a glass sitting at one of their small tables alongside the canal, watching the barge traffic and being entertained by the geese and ducks all around. Jazz ensembles or a funky brass band perform on Wednesday and Friday evenings, making for great fun.  Prices are very affordable with 3- and 4-course meals ranging from €17.50 to €32.

L’Auberge du Somail
Chemin de Halage, 1, 11120 Le Somail, France / 04 68 70 71 02
L’Auberge is the 'new' restaurant in Le Somail, having opened with its current owners two years ago.  Locals often come here for birthday celebrations or other special occasions.  It offers an elegant dining room and an outdoor canal-side terrace.  The chef here draws from Languedoc's proximity to Spain, borrowing several dishes from the Spanish, such as paella and gaspacho.  There are plenty of typically French favorites, too: a delicious melted goat cheese salad, foie gras, and a homemade cassoulet among them.  This is the only restaurant in Le Somail that offers this succulent and rich regional dish made with white beans and duck confit.  There is great debate as to exactly where cassoulet originated.  Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse all claim ownership, and there is a confrerie of cassoulet chefs still arguing over the recipe and it's origin.  One thing that is agreed on is that the beans have to be AOC from the Aude region. Prices range from €23 to €25 for a three course menu, or order a la carte from their large selection.

Le Somail Rive Gauche 

Le Plan B
135, Rue de la Bergerie, 11120 Le Somail, France / 06 71 88 41 48
Located a bit off the beaten path, and away from the bustle of canal boat traffic and honking geese, you will find complete tranquility in the shaded courtyard of this B&B and restaurant.   Once a shepherd's domaine, you can enjoy drinks and tapas under the trees, or visit the piano bar inside the converted barn.  The owner offers simple family style cuisine for meals from a table d’hôte menu.  Le Plan B provides a very relaxing atmosphere for aperitifs or after hours drinks, especially convenient if sleeping in one of the adjacent B&B rooms of the main house.



L'O à la Bouche
Allee des Cypres, 11120 Le Somail, France   /  04.68.46.00.09
The huge shaded terrace at this brasserie is right on the canal and open all day. A festive trendy atmosphere is provided by these young restaurateurs from nearby Narbonne. It is THE place to meet friends for a few beers, or to sip chilled rosé while watching the barge traffic. The stone canal bridge often proves challenging to those piloting small rental boats, who negotiate the underpass with quite a lot of shouting and bumping - excitement guaranteed. The chef doles out fancy plates, specializing in Mediterranean seafood, and les frites (French fries) are freshly made in-house. Tables are nearly always full at meal time with menus ranging from €21 to €29.

Le Somail B&B Barge  

Bateau Mariance B&B
Allée des Cyprès, 11120 Le Somail, France / 06 33 69 01 06
For those who do not have an entire week to spend on a barge cruise, a perfect solution may be this pretty and well maintained Dutch barge, converted to a B&B by owner Mariance. It stays moored in one spot, and provides a great base from which to explore the surrounding area. Bookings are available by the night for a single cabin, or your group could rent all three cabins and have the barge to yourselves. There is a spacious living/dining area, tree shaded deck, and Wifi throughout the barge. This is a favorite stop-over for bicyclists riding along the canal, with access to hot showers, comfortable beds, and a meal cooked up by Mariance, featuring specialties from her native Madagascar. Highly recommended by BHB.

Learn more about barge cruises on Canal du Midi that include a visit to Le Somail at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Featured Barge: Après Tout

Private Charter Bookings for 4 - 6 guests as well as Individual Cabin Bookings

Après Tout is the star boutique barge in Burgundy. It's perfect in every way. Huge cabins with emperorer beds, modern décor, excellent cuisine, fantastic tailor made shore visits, and a crew who love their job. You may have to book one year ahead as it is very popular.

Rory and Caroline Macrae are living their dream. After 10 years working on hotel barges and 10 years managing Orient Express barges they have created the ultimate barge cruise. While Rory expertly navigates the 50 small locks on the Burgundy canal, Caroline prepares delectable dishes with her signature sauces as well as creating an unsurpassed ambiance.

What Makes Après Tout Special

• Spacious cabins with extra-large beds
• Special evening river cruise while dining on deck
• Quality shore visits reflecting extensive personal knowledge of best sights from Beaune to Dijon.

Learn more about cruising on Barge Après Tout, or book your trip at Boutique Hotel Barges.

Recipes from "A Week on the Water": Mustard and White Wine Onion Soup

Founder of Boutique Hotel Barges and "A Week on the Water" author, Hazel Young, is a graduate of the French National Cooking School in Beaune. She has run numerous cooking seminars and culinary cruises aboard her former barge Fandango, and planned the boutique barge's extraordinary menus for over two decades.

Dijon mustard originated in 1856, when Jean Naigeon of Dijon substituted verjuice, (the acidic juice of under-ripe grapes) for vinegar in the traditional mustard recipe.  Although still produced in France, French Dijon mustard is now made from seed and wine imported from North America.

Mustard and White Wine Onion Soup

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon grape seed oil
• 1 onion chopped
• 1 potato chopped
• 1 clove garlic crushed
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 sprig of parsley
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1 white of leek, sliced and washed
• 4 oz slice of smoked bacon
• 300 ml (2 cups) white wine
• 800 ml (41/2 cups) water
• 1 tablespoon Dijon grainy mustard
• 1 tablespoon Dijon smooth mustard
• 1 teaspoon vegetable stock paste
• salt and pepper
• 1 cup liquid cream
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

Heat oil and butter in saucepan.

Add onion and leek, and gently fry until translucent.

Add other vegetables, cook for three minutes stirring occasionally then add water and white wine, mustards, stock paste. Bring to boil, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove bay leaf and parsley sprig, blend and adjust seasoning.

Stir in cream and pour into individual bowls, decorate with chopped parsley.

Highlights of Burgundy: A Trip to the Dijon Market

Even on a grey day at the end of the barging season in late October, a trip to Dijon's fabulous Les Halles market is a guaranteed pleasure for anyone with a love for food. The covered market occupies an expansive 19th-century structure, designed and built by Eiffel Tower architect, Gustave Eiffel.

On market days, the shopping begins before you even enter the market. Vendors line the street, featuring everything from seasonal produce to tee shirts. On our fall trip there were tables heaped with late-season crops, the stars of which were les champions — the mushrooms.

Inside, Les Halles hums with activity, filled with stalls offering shoppers every sort of wonderful food imaginable. Fruits, vegetables, fish, meats, cheese, eggs, dairy products, sausages, snails, pate, bread and pastries, endless varieties of jams and jellies, wines and liqueur de cassis — all as much a delight for the eyes as for the taste buds.

A stop at the fromage counter finds the amicable vendors eager to offer samples and make recommendations for new and enticing types of French cheese to try. Our purchases on this visit included some Saint Marcellin, Fourme d'Ambert and and a particularly decadent and creamy Pont l'Evêque, later enjoyed back at the barge with a loaf of crusty bread and a bottle of sparkling Crement.

The biggest market days are Tuesday and Friday. Thursday the market is only inside Les Halles. It's always best to go early in the day. You will be done with shopping in time for lunch in one of the many small cafés and bistros within walking distance of the market.

Learn more about barge cruises that include a visit to Dijon at Boutique Hotel Barges.